One of the more unique dishes of Ukraine, and certainly
very traditional as well, is "studynets" (also known as "kholodets" and
"drahli"). While the idea of any jellied meat may not be a pleasing thought,
one can compare it to a fish aspic - a dish that is very popular in many
parts of Europe. "Studynets" is often a main course in many meals. With
its unique shape and texture, it is often presented on a platter with assorted
cold meats when it is served as an appetizer before a meal. Many cooks
prefer about an equal mix of gelatinous texture and meat, but you can increase
the amount of meats used in this recipe by a third without affecting the
quality as I have done here. The original amounts of meat are in parentheses.
4 pigs feet (3)
2 pounds (1 ½) beef shank, center cut
1 tablespoon or more of salt
1 large carrot
2 full stalks of celery with leaves
1 medium to large onion
3 cloves garlic
5 peppercorns
2 bay leaves
1) Using a strong clean brush, scrape and trim the pigs
feet. Wash them very thoroughly.
2) Pat them dry and broil them on all sides under the
broiler until you see a golden brown color on all sides. This will give
the meat a subtle smoked flavor. You can achieve the same result by placing
the pig’s feet on some glowing red embers of wood or coal (NOT barbeque
charcoal), turning them over so that they brown evenly on all sides. You
will probably have to wash and scrape the scorched parts.
3) Cut the feet in half lengthwise. Wash the beef shank
and place the shank and the feet in a large kettle. Add the salt and cover
with cold water.
4) Bring to a boil and skim. Cover the kettle and simmer
very slowly. This is very important, because rapid boiling will make the
broth turn milky.
5) After 3 hours of cooking, add the whole vegetables
and spices. Continue simmering until the meat comes off the bones easily.
Total cooking time is about 6 hours (a quality dish takes time!). Strain
the meat and save the broth. Discard all the bones, spices, and vegetables
but save the carrots.
6) Cut up the larger pieces of meat. Arrange the meat
in a suitable dish such as one used for scalloped potatoes or lasagna.
Slice the carrot and mix it in with the meat.
7) Season the broth to taste with salt and pepper and
pour it over the meat.Chill it thoroughly and the broth will gel. Before
serving, remove the fat that collects on the top. Serve in slices or squares
(the traditional method) and garnish with sprigs of parsley.
Most Ukrainians enjoy their "studynets" with pieces of
dark rye and will pour a bit of white vinegar on each piece.